anyone have access to chainsaw/log?

[whslaxplayer11]

Hey all, so im trying to make some disc golf trophy/plaques and I was thinking of using slices from a tree thats about 12" or so in diameter. Anyone have any ideas on how/where I can get these without owning a chainsaw?
Thanks

[Ol' Bob]

I want to warn you that crosscut slices of logs tend to check (split) when they dry out. Even if the wood is dry when you start, it will tend to check, if it hasn't already checked in the log. The problem is, the inner rings are wider, indicating faster growth and lesser density, while the outer rings are tight and dense. The difference in shrinkage sets up stresses that will pull the piece apart. There may be types of wood that are less likely to do this, but I don't know what kinds those are.



community.woodmagazine.com/t5/General-Woodworking/Wood-quot-CHECKING-quot-Out/td-p/92930

[NoLoPutts]

I would not worry about the checking. Especially if you use maple. Has more of a interwoven grain. Checking can add to the artistic value as well. Any way how many are you looking for??

[XandorF]

yo ive got a grip of chainsaws and access to a bunch of wood. when do you need them by... or just give me a call

503 781 9379

[chainbanger'z]

Originally Posted by XandorF

yo ive got a grip of chainsaws and access to a bunch of wood. when do you need them by... or just give me a call

503 781 9379

On the topic of wood,you by chance don't have say 4) 10" round by 40' long cedar do you? We are redesigning Lakewood and could use them for a couple of bridges we are building. Id be willing to make the trip if so, and hooking you up with some credit at the shop for helping out.

[whslaxplayer11]

Originally Posted by XandorF

yo ive got a grip of chainsaws and access to a bunch of wood. when do you need them by... or just give me a call

503 781 9379

Hey are you xander from PSU?

[Ol' Bob]

Originally Posted by chainbanger'z

On the topic of wood,you by chance don't have say 4) 10" round by 40' long cedar do you? We are redesigning Lakewood and could use them for a couple of bridges we are building. Id be willing to make the trip if so, and hooking you up with some credit at the shop for helping out.

Ten inches on the big end, or the small end? If it's the small end, that's going to be a pretty big log at 40 feet. If you are assuming cedar will be good because it doesn't rot, that's not necessarily true of second growth cedar. The sapwood of smaller cedars is quite susceptible to rot, as is the fat heart grain. Fir would likely do as well, or better, as bridge beams. In any case, you'll want to have the bark off before you use them, as the bark will invite bugs and rot. If the logs are up off the ground and dry most of the time, they'll last pretty well. You should treat all joints and support surfaces with wood preservative. That sapwood will take rot anywhere the grain is exposed, or where it can stay wet, like in a joint or support point.

Back in the day, my neighbors and I used small cedar "rollers" as posts under buildings and for post-and-beam construction. All of these are gone now. They didn't last. I later worked in a shingle mill and learned that there were two parts of a cedar log that didn't make it into No.1 shingles: the sapwood, and the larger grained centers. That stuff got cut out and off at the bolter saw and sent to the wigwam burner.

If I were building those bridges, I'd check with the local power companies and see what they have in used power poles. For a public park, they might even donate (and deliver) them.