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    Whenever I see a matress on top of a car, I think it's a prostitute making a house call!

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    • I can't remember if I posted these or not, but I did these for Will.

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      • Wow, I realized I haven't posted any new dyes on here. Here are the others that I've done:



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        • I have seen two of those dye jobs on the course. The eagle (on an Eagle)and the tribal spiral on (a spider). I could be wrong but, I think Will was showing off the Spider today. Great looking dyes.
          Nihilists! F@#$ me. I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos.

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          • Thanks
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            • Originally posted by whalekillah View Post
              I have seen two of those dye jobs on the course. The eagle (on an Eagle)and the tribal spiral on (a spider). I could be wrong but, I think Will was showing off the Spider today. Great looking dyes.
              Yes I was. Loving that disc, esp with the dye job on it
              According to Mazza I have a sissy arm

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              • Yep, awesome discs run.
                Can dye be "used up" so it no longer has enough potency to dye a disc?
                Whenever I see a matress on top of a car, I think it's a prostitute making a house call!

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                • Originally posted by Kris C View Post
                  So I have a DX Aviar thats been sitting in the dye (black) for 2 days now, and still has almost no color at all. It's a batch of dye that I've used before (the Hawaiian God disc above). I've dyed a couple other DX discs that took color just fine. I've had it warm most of the time. I turn the stove off when it feels too hot. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
                  At first I thought you had blue vinyl on a white Dx Aviar, but now I see that the disc is blue and the vinyl is taking the Rit just fine. I don't know what to say except Dx is lame for dyeing. I tried to dye Dx and KC Pro stuff a long time ago and gave it up after a couple of similar attempts to yours.

                  Originally posted by Kris C View Post
                  Can dye be "used up" so it no longer has enough potency to dye a disc?
                  I have no idea how long it takes Rit to break down into something other than dye. I guess it must, due to exposure to oxygen and heat, but I don't think it is something to worry about. I used the same box of black Rit for over a year of dyeing at least one disc a day, and the only problem I ever had was that the water in the pot would evaporate over time, so I just added a little more whenever necessary. Never did I add more dye in that year, and eventually I just had to throw it out because I was moving apartments and pans full o' black Rit death don't handle the moving process very well.

                  If you do the same, make sure you have a good stainless steel pot, because Tim tried the same thing in a thin aluminum pot and the dyebath ate right through the metal.

                  Short answer, you had better be dyeing a whole ton of plastic if you want to use up all the dye in a box of Rit (depending upon the amount that your process wastes with each dip.)
                  The only thing miraculous about ICP is the fact that their children look like them...

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                  • Originally posted by Kris C View Post
                    So I have a DX Aviar thats been sitting in the dye (black) for 2 days now, and still has almost no color at all. It's a batch of dye that I've used before (the Hawaiian God disc above). I've dyed a couple other DX discs that took color just fine. I've had it warm most of the time. I turn the stove off when it feels too hot. Any ideas as to why this is happening?
                    Typically, DX doesn't dye well. Not sure why you had success before, but your most recent experience is more the norm.

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                    • Originally posted by ChUcK View Post
                      If you do the same, make sure you have a good stainless steel pot, because Tim tried the same thing in a thin aluminum pot and the dyebath ate right through the metal.
                      That pot was steel, cheap and thin, yes, but stainless steel nonetheless.
                      Untwist thine undergarments, 'tis but a Frisbee.

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                      • I keep my dye in a milk jug and pour it into the pot when I dye and then put it back. I added a little acetone to the pot of dye, and it helped VERY little.
                        Whenever I see a matress on top of a car, I think it's a prostitute making a house call!

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                        • I stand corrected. Whatever stainless steel pan you use, make sure it passes the burglar thought experiment test. If -upon smacking the pan against a burglar's head- you are more worried about the condition of the pan than the burglar's skull, it should not be used.
                          The only thing miraculous about ICP is the fact that their children look like them...

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                          • I have seen even fruit juice eat through stainless. I write it off as an impurity in the steel, as it happens in just one tiny place over a large, otherwise, unaffected area.

                            I believe that lamp black/carbon black is still the main black pigment over the ages. The best pigments of most colors are the ones that endure over time. Since a few molecules go a long way when spread only a molecule or two thick, I'd think those batches of dye long lived when doing surfaces other than fabric.
                            The Corporate Empire is NOT a Constitutional Republic...
                            ...but it plays one on TV.

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                            • "Tim tried the same thing in a thin aluminum pot and the dyebath ate right through the metal."

                              What a MESS!!!
                              Whenever I see a matress on top of a car, I think it's a prostitute making a house call!

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                              • Look at your picture, Kris, the water is beading up on the disc. DX and Pro are particularly hydrophobic and Rit is a 'direct dye' that is 'water-soluble' and, hence, has a problem with getting into the plastic. In reality, the actual dye never goes into a true solution because the color is carried as small particles caught between groups of water molecules and is never really solubilized. Adding acetone to the water helps 'open' the plastic by loosening the polymerized chains enough to allow the particles of color to become lodged in between (much like in fabric, which is what Rit was really designed for). Increasing your acetone concentration can get you better results, but even though acetone is miscible in water, it will still evaporate out of the solution as it is heated. It can be hard to tell just from the smell if there is still some in the water because the smell of the vapors will linger in the air, and the nose, for a while after it is gone from the solution. That's why people get different results with DX. But, putting in too much acetone can have adverse affects on the plastic, and subsequently the shape, of the disc.

                                I once traded someone a Pro Beast for a Pro monster and wanted to remove the sharpie marker scribbling doodle dye job that was on the top, ('monster' face) and it wouldn't all come off with isoproponol. So, after wiping the hell out of it acetone, I put it in a gallon ziploc (which are impervious to acetone) and then filled it with acetone and left for a few minutes. No change. After checking on it several times over a few hours, I decided to leave it in overnight. Bad idea. By morning, the flight plate had expanded, while the rim had not, making the disc look like a giant bottle cap! It was freaky lookin'. The disc 'dried out' after about a week and the flight plate actually shrank and changed the overall angle of attack on the wing of the disc such that it flew unpredictably...beyond understable. Nothing like a Monster.

                                The other way to get better results with Rit, is to actually grind it up farther with a mortar and pestle, but this requires gloves, a mask, a high quality porcelain mortar and pestle, and patience because it must be done slowly so as not to make a big cloud of dust. In other words...not recommended.

                                Rit also has to be in a slightly alkaline or neutral solution, never acidic, and always near boiling point, to work. Rit also contains salt to help attract the dye particles to organic fibers. Boiling down an acidic salt solution, increasing its concentration, and then leaving it in the pot and heating it up again is going to break down the metal.
                                Last edited by Burge; October 4th, 2010, 04:36 PM.
                                "When the power of love overcomes the love of power, the world will know peace." -- Jimi Hendrix

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